Mentawai Diaries By Reef Ambassador Victoria Vergara
It was my first time in Indonesia and I will remember it my whole life. From France, it’s a really long journey to get to Padang, but once I put my first step on the ferry to go the islands, I forgot everything. The warm weather, water and coconut trees holding on those wild islands is the first scenery that you experience upon arrival… it was a dream.
I couldn’t wait for our first surf. I got my board ready as soon as we finished lunch and start picturing myself in this clear blue ocean for hours. I couldn’t, sleep that first night; the excitement was too much!
The next day I surfed more than 7 hours, hopping from island to island. We explored islands and sand banks, searching for ocean treasures. Every single photo we took was picture perfect—the colors were mind blowing. A clear, blue water, powering sky and the contrast of the white sand and the green coconut trees were jaw dropping.
I was really impressed by the quality of the waves too. We got to surf on a shortboard and a longboard pretty much everyday. We found perfect lefts for barrels, for logging, for turns. The only thing that we had to do was agree on what waves we wanted to surf!
Everyday, we left the ocean with the sunset. We woke up before the sunrise and our days of waves and sun were on repeat. At night, we could see the stars like I’ve never seen them before. No lights lit the night; it was so powerful, because everything in the Mentawais is still untouched by the human. There is a real wild vibe and this place makes me feel humble and thankful with my life, thankful with the fact that today there are still some places in the world that aren’t destroyed by us and still protected from the pollution and overcrowding.